Mini vacation
Yes, it's true, we left our new wine for a few days on
it's own so that we could relax a bit and enjoy a few hours of sunshine
before the days grow short and the temperatures start to dip. We
decided to go to a town called Arbois which is in the Jura region,
about half way in between Burgundy and Switzerland. Is it a wine
region? But of course! One of the more complicated and obscure in
France. They make white, red, and rosé from 5 different grape
varieties. The whites are made from Chardonnay and Savignin (no, that
is not a typo) the reds from Poulsard, (or Ploussard, they have two
ways of spelling it!) Trousseau and Pinot Noir. You definitely have to
have an open mind when you start to consider these wines, they are
unlike anything I have ever tasted, but the more you drink them the
better you understand them, they are amazingly complex and well worth
the time it takes to comprehend. We visited one of the most talked
about producers in the area at their shop in the center of Arbois.
Stéphane Tissot is the man that is making wine lovers talk about Arbois
these days, so we went to check out his wines. Little did we know, he's
a fellow organic and biodynamic wine man! One of the wines we were most
interested in is a cuvée that he makes with no sulfur added at all.
There is quite a movement here in France to produce a small quantity of
wine without sulfur, you can get some pretty interesting wines and some
pretty awful ones too. Sulfur dioxide is what we add to wine protect
the grapes from spoiling during vinification and to protect the wine
from oxidizing when it's finished fermenting, basically it's a natural
preservative. I say natural because it is a natural compound, but also
because it is allowed in Organic wine making in low amounts, and we do
use it. Wines that are made without sulfur can be wonderful, they just
have to be handled carefully as they can easily oxidize, spoil, or even
re-ferment if the wine is not completely dry. Many people have low
tolerance for added sulfur in wines, so if the amount of sulfur can be
lowered or even eliminated, why not? It is necessary to be reasonable
though, it's hard to imagine large quantities of unsulfured wine ever
being shipped long distances since the risk of spoilage is so great.
Anyway... back to Arbois: They didn't have any of this particular
bottling at the shop in the center of town, so the saleswoman called up
to the winery to see if we could run up to get some.
Luckily Mme Tissot, Stéphane's mother, was there even though it was a
holiday weekend. She very graciously gave us a tour of the winery and
sold us our bottles of the unsulfured cuvée. More about Arbois next
time, it was such fun, I'll have to split it into two posts....maybe
three!

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