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February 11, 2008

Visiting Tavel

Well, I can't tell you about all of my tastings, and not all of them are all that interesting to tell about, but my visit to Tavel was particularly interesting last week. 

Pict0001 Funny,there was a nice article in the NY Times yesterday about Tavel,  all except for the picture that was posted on the "front page" of the website and at the header of the story.  It's an article about Tavel, which to anyone in the wine world means Tavel Rosé, a very dark rosé,  in a distinctive tall skinny Alsatian style bottle.  The lead picture they used was taken 100km away at a beach side town and the rosé on the table was clearly not Tavel.  The bottle was a squat Bordeaux-style and the color of the rosé was far from what a Tavel would be.  Although the producers of Tavel were surely thrilled to have an article about their appellation in the NY Times, they were most certainly disappointed that they chose that photo, which for them has nothing to do with their wine.  Every time I see that picture it drives me nuts!  I can't believe the editor approved it.  It's very disappointing.   He/she obviously knows nothing about Tavel!!!
Pict0001_2
Ok, I'll stop ranting.  I spent a wonderful morning tasting in Tavel.  I have to say it's one of the most difficult tastings I do.  It's very hard to taste 20 Tavel rosés in a row, most of which are good to excellent quality.  How do you select the best ones?  I admit I have a hard time with this, so I choose more than I should and wait to taste them a second time with the big cheese, Thierry Desseauve.  Yes, a cop-out in a way, but I prefer to rely on someone with more experience rather than eliminate some potentially good wines because I want to look like I know what I'm doing.

Pict0006 After the tasting,  Vincent De Bez of Château d'Aquéria and Guillaume Dugas of Prieuré de Montézargues took me on a little visit around Tavel.  We visited the Prieuré de Montézargues which is an absolutely amazing property with views of the Mont Ventoux that will take your breath away.  Then Vincent took us into the village to show us the old gardens of the villagers.  There was a time when most people in the village had a small plot of land just outside the village.  They were separated by stone walls and water was brought to them by a series of canals that led from the village "lavoir" or washing basin.  It was so interesting to see these ancient gardens, some of which are still in use today. 

It's funny,  last year I wrote about my visit to Tavel too.  I think it's because Vincent de Bez is so passionate and well-informed about the history of the area that he makes it come alive.  Since I love to hear stories and historical information about the places I visit, Vincent is the prefect ambassador of Tavel! 

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Comments

Thanks for the great post about Tavel and for pointing out the NY Times article, which I missed yesterday (and the erronious photo).

Now, in the "small world" department -- the author mentions swapping houses with Eric Pfifferling of L’Anglore in the Tavel area. Well, I met Eric at a NY tasting of his wine. I guess it was when he and his family were living in the Times writer's house -- he did mention that his family was in NY with him. When he told me where his vineyard was located, I asked him if he knew La Gramiere, which I thought was pretty close.

If you don't know each other, you should. He seemed like a great guy. I believe his wines are organic, and he doesn't even add sulphur. I bought a bottle, which I've kept refrigerated as he suggested, waiting for the appropriate meal. I also seem to recall that he too has to label his wine Vin de Table, but I'm not sure about that.

I am glad that Tavel is getting some recognition in the US. My wife and I have been tasting Rose' for a few years and so far none (except for maybe the Spanish Garnacha Rose) comes close to the wines from Tavel.

Rose from Bordeaux and Anjou are good, but Provence is the place to look for the really good stuff.

Wish I was on your trip to Tavel.

I don't know how many producers of Tavel there are, but Mr. Taz, above, mentions the one that just became my favorite--the Domaine de l'Anglore. I had the 2006 at the new natural wine caviste here in SF and was thoroughly wowed. While hardly a summertime quaffer (the label says 14.5% alcohol), it's positively bursting with some super-succulent fruit (raspberries and strawberries). I didn't know Tavel was typically darker-colored--thanks for pointing that out--but this one sure is. I also didn't know Tavel was as gorgeous as it appears in your photos.

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